Long Way Home - Day 1: Ferry from Donghae

Sunday, August 26th, 2012. 10:00 pm (Korea time)

Somewhere between Donghae, South Korea and Vladivostok, Russia. Off the coast of North Korea.

Lying in my bunk, I can feel the constant vibrations of the mighty diesel engines and the very slight swaying back and forth as our vessel plies the waters of the Sea of Japan.

Eight hours ago, we set off from Donghae, South Korea, aboard the Korean ferry Eastern Dream. Earlier this evening, sitting on the deck of the ship, it occurred to me why I found the view of the sea around me so unnerving: it's flat. Korea is many things, but flat is not one of them. For the past two years, I have been surrounded by mountains. Granted, they lacked the majesty of Canada's mighty Rockies, but they were omnipresent. Now, I am surrounded on all sides by flat ocean as far as I can see. Perhaps this voyage is preparing me, in some small way, for a return to the prairies of my home.

This day has been so surreal. It took a long time for it to become apparent that I am actually leaving Korea for good. As I watched the coastline slowly recede, it finally began to hit home. I leave behind two years of great friends and the best time of my life. So far, that is.

What lies ahead? Who knows. But as I begin the next chapter, I find myself so grateful for this time of retrospection. I can't imagine immediately returning home after these past two years and experiencing anything approaching normality. This time is needed for decompression and to reflect of what these two years have meant to me.

As our ship chugs along through the inky blackness, I keep hoping  that the clouds will clear, revealing the awesomeness of the night sky without the interference of Seoul's lights. Alas, the clouds never do dissipate, and we remain mired in the infinite black. I miss the stars, but I take solace in the fact that they can't hide forever.

Time to get some sleep. In about thirteen hours, we arrive at Vladivostok port in Russia. For now, we keep sailing along, giving the coast of North Korea a wide berth. Tomorrow, I set foot in Russia for the first time.

An epic journey begins...

As I write this, I am sitting in an internet cafe in the small town of Donghae, South Korea. Today is the last day I will spend in this country, a culmination of two years of teaching English, being immersed in a foreign culture, and one of the best experiences of my life. So far.

Tomorrow, my friend Fergal and I will board a ferry bound for Vladivostok, Russia, taking our first steps on what I hope is a pretty epic journey. My internet time during this trip will be pretty scant, and there is a good chance that this blog will see very little activity in the way of updates for the next month and a half. But then again, what else is new?

Our travels will take us to Lake Baikal, Irkutsk, Moscow, and St. Petersberg. From there, we will make our way across Europe, traveling through Belarus, Poland, Germany, the Netherlands, Belgium, and France. Taking a ferry across the Channel, we will see the white cliffs of Dover before moving on to London. From London, I will fly back home to Canada, with a brief stop in Reykjavik, Iceland. Because, well, why not?

As I said, internet access might not feature much in this trip. However, I would like to write about my experiences and provide some pictures. Rest assured, if I am able, I will endeavour to do so! The current plan is to arrive home on October 9th. Wish me luck!

- Dan Gunther

A confession about coffee...

Today I learned: I don't know what I really like or dislike.  For twenty-nine years, I've maintained that I don't like coffee.  Well, okay: to be fair, for a number of those years I didn't really have a choice in the matter.  Still, it's fair to say that I've been pretty consistent about my dislike of coffee.  Then, just this last week, I went out for coffee with my co-workers.  For those of you living and working in Korea, you know things are a little different here.  If someone above you in your hierarchy offers you food or a drink, it's extremely rude to say no.  So, there I was, a table of my "betters" all staring me down as I was asked which coffee I would like.  Needless to say, I was compelled to drink.  It was a fairly high-end coffee place, so I decided to try something interesting.  They featured coffee from a number of different countries, and I thought I'd give the Guatemalan coffee a try.  After the first bitter sip, I pasted a fake smile on my face and pronounced it good, much to the delight of my fellow teachers.  However, as the aftertaste made itself known, I began to come to a startling realization: it didn't taste bad.  Not bad at all!  Tentatively, I took another sip.  Not holding my breath this time, I allowed myself to fully experience the taste and aroma of the coffee.  By the end of the cup, I was fully appreciating the taste of this heretofore reviled beverage.

The lesson here is, if you didn't like something when you were younger, don't wait fifteen years to try it again.  You may be surprised.  For my coffee lover friends, what is your favourite coffee?  What should I try next?  I feel like a whole new world has opened up to me, a world I know next to nothing about!

Oh, and by the way, Guatemalan coffee with 팥빙수 is ridiculously amazing.

Things I'll Miss About Korea: School Lunch

It concerns me how many of my posts are/will be about food.

Lunchtime in Korean middle school.  For some of my fellow ex-pats, this topic is a source of contention.  To hear many of my friends speak of the lunches at their schools, you would think that they are the worst thing in the world.  Still others rave about the food they are served.  You can definitely count me in the latter of those two groups.  I am usually very impressed by the meals served by the cafeteria at Sinsang Middle School.  It sounds like I certainly got lucky when it comes to the food we're served!  Sure, there is the occasional dud, but for the most part the food is satisfying and delicious.

Lunch is served buffet-style, and teachers line up to fill their trays from a selection of foods.  The main feature of the meal is rice, followed usually by some sort of meat dish, a vegetable dish, and kimchi (of course!).  A soup normally rounds out the meal.

The serving area.  The red container holds the rice.

Today's lunch: a little different from the norm.  Instead of the regular soup, we
had a noodle dish.  Also included were some kind of pizza pocket-things.

Lunch time also affords opportunities for socializing with co-workers.
Unfortunately, sometimes the English content of the discussion is limited!

As I said, the food is usually good quality and delicious.  However, bibimbap day is something altogether special!  Nothing compares to entering the lunch room and discovering that this king of Korean dishes is the day's featured menu.  Bibimbap day causes me to do my happy dance (even if it's just in my head so as not to confuse and frighten the Korean teachers)!

Bibimbap.  Om nom nom.

Things I will really miss about Korea: bibimbap day.

Things I'll miss about Korea #3: Pamphlet Immunity!

One of the small joys I get here in Korea is being ignored.  Well, to be fair, as a foreigner, I actually get quite a lot of attention from people in the street.  However, there is one situation in which I am often overlooked, and I am quite happy in these cases.

The people on the street who hand out flyers and pamphlets are quite insistent and in-your-face.  Also, I don't know if it is a byproduct of the politeness culture in Korea, but many more people seem to be willing to accept a pamphlet or flyer from a hawker here than the average person would be back home.  Perhaps that's why the practice seems to be more wide-spread, at least here in Seoul.  However, many of the people handing them out seem to be quite rude.  In one instance, I saw a man walk alongside a woman for nearly half a block, holding a flyer against her arm while making his spiel.  She was doing everything she could to ignore him, but he wouldn't have it.  I would have been livid if someone tried to do that to me!  The good news is, they generally don't.  When one of these people sees my foreign face, they assume that I can't read or understand Korean and generally ignore me.  (For the most part, they're correct, but I probably understand a lot more than they assume.)  There are exceptions (churches being the main one), but for the most part, street advertisers are simply something I don't have to deal with.

Another exception was a local gym that recently opened near my officetel.  They actually had an English-language pamphlet for me to read, and after looking it over, I am now a member there.  Sadly, in this case, street advertising actually worked on me.  However, it's quite a nice gym, and hopefully I can get into enough of a habit of going that I continue to lose weight after I return home to Canada.  No regrets!

Things I Will Miss About Korea #2: The Subway

An Ode to the Seoul Metropolitan Subway System

In London, there is the tube
Edmonton, the LRT
Vancouver has the sky train
And others around the world, too numerous to mention
But here, in the capital of Korea to the south
The jewel of easy travel on rail
That bastion of convenient commutes
The Seoul Metropolitan Subway System.


Sixteen lines, heat in the winter and air-con in the summer
Some days, taking long rides just for relief on a hot summer's day
Clean, usually quiet, the gentle rumbling down the tracks
What better time than to crack open a good book?


Maps and signs in multiple languages ensure you'll never be lost
Doesn't matter if you're Korean or waygookin
Just pay the small fee and you're on your way
Unless the Korean soccer team just played; then, you may have to wait.


One look at the map, and you may be daunted
But have no fear; the subway is easy to navigate
Anywhere you want to go, you can
Although you might need the smart phone subway app.


Fall asleep before you reach your transfer?
Have no fear! They've thought of that
A cute little tune will play to wake you up
Because, after all, everything in Korea must be cute.


Yes, the Seoul subway is a marvel of modern engineering
So many lines, trains, and stations
How can they keep track of it all?
I don't worry about it; I just put my head back and wait
Nowon station is coming up soon.



Apologies for that, it turns out I am not a poet in the slightest!  I do want to say that I've never seen a public transportation infrastructure as advanced and convenient as Seoul's.  The bus system is also very good, but I mostly use the subway so I don't have much experience in that area.  The English signage is definitely a great thing for us English-speaking ex-pats, but even moreso to visitors only in the city for a few days.

To give you an idea about some of the things I mentioned above, I've included a few pictures of the subway system.  Click on the thumbnails for a larger view!

Exits and entrances to the subway stations are clearly marked.

The inside of Digital Media City station.  Notice the signage in Korean and English.

... including English!

A ticketing kiosk.  Service is available
in multiple languages...

After getting a subway card, you merely swipe it to walk through the gates to the platform.

Choose which direction to go using the convenient signs showing the stations in either direction.

English and Korean signage show the direction of travel for the train.

And a status indicator shows the current location of the next train!

Convenient maps show the layout of the station.

And other maps show the points of interest and landmarks in the surrounding neighborhood.

There are many escalators to get to and from the platform from ground level.

I try to use the stairs as much as possible, but not at Itaewon station.  Good God!

EDIT: I meant to include this video.  This is poetry done right!  The following video features a song written and performed by an ex-pat living here in Seoul.  The music you hear at the beginning and a various points in the song is actually the tune that many of the lines play on the train when approaching a transfer station.  Also, this video has actually been featured on monitors in the subway stations!

Here's a link to his YouTube Channel.

Things I'll Miss About Korea #1: Pizza School

As I begin my first entry in this series, I would like to stress that this list is not in any order whatsoever!  It may seem silly to start this series with something so seemingly insignificant, but that's because you don't understand how great this phenomenon is.  Without further delay, I introduce to you the first thing I'll miss about Korea: Pizza School.

The Pizza School closest to my apartment, only one of hundreds of locations throughout the country.

Now, don't get me wrong: there are many, many better things in Korea than a budget pizza chain.  Like I said, this list is in no particular order.  However, you can't understate the value you get for the price.  Pizza School offers a fairly large-sized pizza for the ridiculously low price of 5000 won!  For those of you who don't know the exchange rate between won and dollars, according to xe.com, 5000 won equals around 4.34 CAD.

The box.  They even wrap it in a nice, little ribbon.  Like a present!  A delicious, cheesy present.

Now, granted, Pizza School pizza isn't exactly the highest quality pizza out there.  This isn't Ramona's Pizza in Grande Prairie or even Boston Pizza's pizza... but it's not bad!  Did I mention that price?  For less than five dollars, you get the equivalent of a Domino's or Panago pizza.  Let's look at the price, in Canadian dollars, of a regular pepperoni pizza from Domino's, for example.  Pricing out a medium pepperoni pizza on Dominos.ca yields a final cost of $17.31.  Even if we take away the delivery charge, that still leaves us with a pizza that costs $12.49.  Here, at Pizza School, I can buy an equivalent-quality pizza (I would say, even better quality, actually) for only slightly more than a THIRD of the cost!

Greasy, delicious -- and better than Domino's!

Consistent quality at an absolute rock-bottom price earns Pizza School a place on the list of things I will miss about Korea.

Although, to be fair, you might have to get used to the idea of kernels of corn on your pizza...

A Return to Blogging

Hey everyone!  I know it's been ages since I last posted, and I intend to make a few changes.  First, I'd like to talk a little bit about this adventure I've been on.

It's been nearly two years, and I'm beginning to feel the imminent end of my Korean adventure.  I've had some amazing, life-changing experiences.  I've met some amazing people, people who have made impacts on my life that I'm sure that even I will be unable to fully appreciate until some far-off, unknown time.  I intend to recount some of these experiences over the next few months as my time here draws to a close.

I initially came to Korea with the intention of only staying for a year.  However, "fate" or "random circumstance" or whatever you want to call it intervened and caused me to change my mind.  I met an amazing woman and some amazing friends who led me to the decision to stay in this, frankly, amazing place for longer than I expected.  I wouldn't trade my time here for anything.

However, I am now torn.  As August draws closer, I find myself greatly anticipating my return to the land of my birth and the one true home I've known.  I am eager to get back, but at the same time, I don't want these feelings of anticipation to overshadow the experiences I've had and are still having here in Korea.  Indeed, I know that when I finally do leave this place, I will miss it a great deal.  I want to give enough time to fondly reflect on the things about this country that I love, so that I might still appreciate them while I am still here.

To that end, I have decided to compile a list of things that I will miss about this country.  Some of them are small, seemingly insignificant items, while others are much broader in scope.  However, big or small, they all add up to the grand tapestry of my experiences here, and they will all be missed.  This is not to say that every experience here has been entirely positive.  It is easy to look back with rose-coloured glasses and imagine that my time here has never had any sort of obstacle or setback.  I will, on occasion, recount some of the stumbling blocks I've encountered.  After all, any experience worth having is not going to be without its speed bumps.

Over the next few weeks, I intend to begin my chronicle.  I have a few topics lined up already, but I am also still compiling ideas.  I appreciate any input anyone might want to provide, and any questions people want to know will be addressed.  My friends, please enjoy my meandering thoughts and recollections, and to everyone back home, I will indeed be seeing you soon!

One Year Later...

Well, here it is: one year in.

It doesn't seem real.  I recently returned to Seoul from a ten-day vacation in Las Vegas and back home in Alberta.  Many things took me by surprise: first, how much I missed being here in Korea while I was home, and, in the last few days, how severely I miss being back in Canada.  Just a little taste of being home with friends and family made me realize how much I miss them.  It sounds silly, but the last couple of days leading up to the start of my second year have been incredibly hard.  Knowing that I could have been going home for good, but rather, I'll be spending another year here has hit home in a very real way.

I've met so many amazing people here, and I have many good friends, but I almost feel like I did in the first few weeks after I arrived here a year ago.  I'm eager to meet new people and get out and explore.  One of the reasons I opted to remain another year here in Korea was to have more opportunities to travel throughout Asia, something I have not done at all yet.  I have explored many areas of Korea quite thoroughly, but other destinations in the region such as Japan, China, Taiwan, Vietnam, the Philippines, and Thailand have all eluded me thus far.  I would like to think that I'll have many opportunities to visit them in my second year, but I have a feeling that it will fly by much like the first one has.

I'm sorry that this particular entry has sounded so melancholy.  As such, it really matches my mood of late.  I will have an opportunity tonight to reconnect with some friends here in Seoul at Dillinger Pub's trivia night, so I'm really looking forward to that.  However, I think some Skyping home to friends and family might be in order.

I love you all, and I hope to talk to all of my friends soon.

Thoughts from Places: The Train from Seoul to Daegu

Written Saturday, May 7th, 2011

In the past couple of weeks, the weather has taken a distinct turn in Korea.  Gone are the chilly mornings in which one can still see their breath and the ever-present chill in the hallways of the school.  Instead, we have sunshine and warmth, a sharp rise in humidity, and that small bit of sweat accumulating at the small of your back as you walk the busy streets of Seoul

Summer is on the way!

As I gaze out the window of the train, the Korean countryside rolls by, bathed in the nearly oppressive heat of the late-spring sun.  Oppressive, that us, to this Canadian, who is more used to seeing snow on the ground in early May than battling the heat.  The warmer weather in the past couple of weeks has turned the landscape from dreary tones of brown and grey to the green of grass and leaves and the many colours of the flowers and other flora we pass.  Shelby, Meagan and I are on our way to Daegu this afternoon, leaving behind the noise and smog of Seoul for a couple of days.  Of course, Daegu is still a very sizeable city, so we'll be greeted once again by noise and smog at the end of our journey.

The landscape of this part of Korea is reminiscent of home.  As I watch the trees pass by, I'm reminded of the Wapiti River valley, or the area around Dunvegan.  Sunlight plays across green leaves and wide fields, and the nostalgia hits.  I am loving my time here, but part of me is always eager to see my friends and family and the familiar Alberta countryside again.  This leads me to think about my friends the happenings in their lives while I've been gone.  It is supremely unfair that life does not simply stop or pause while I'm away.  No, the lives of my friends go on, seemingly oblivious to the fact that I am not there to witness it.  One of my best friends is going to be a father soon, and I am sad that I won't be there to meet his new kid when he or she is born.  Is it not the height of selfishness for them to go on with their lives when I'm so far away?

I think it goes without saying that I am kidding.  But part of me does regret not being there with my friends and family, for the good times and the bad.  I am traveling to Las Vegas with some friends in August, and I will have some time afterwards.  I'm contemplating going home for four or five days at that time.  If I do so, it would be the last time I'd be home for a full year.  Perhaps it would be worth it?  I'd be able to meet Serge's new son or daughter, see my parents, visit with my friends... I haven't booked a return ticket back from Vegas yet, so I still have some time to think about it.

In the meantime, I'll be here, enjoying the beautiful weather and the company of new friends.  But my mind will, on occasion, return to the beautiful expanses of wide prairie and lush forests of home, and the friends I've temporarily left behind.

All Our Yesterdays

I have now been living and working in Korea for approximately eight months.

When I came, I signed a contract for one year.  If I stick to that original plan, then there are fewer days ahead than there are behind.  However, that no longer looks to be the case.  I can't believe how quickly the time has flown by.  I am really enjoying the people and the country.  I've met some amazing people, both Koreans and ex-pats.  Still, because the time has gone by so quickly, I find myself wanting to stay longer.  Therefore, I am writing this entry to inform my friends and family back home that I have officially decided to renew my contract with the Seoul Metropolitan Office of Education for a second year.

What has brought me to this decision?  A number of things, actually.  First, one of my goals in coming here was to explore areas of the world I haven't seen before.  I've always had a desire to visit many countries, a desire that hasn't been fulfilled yet in my life.  A friend that I met here has now declared that she has been to thirty countries before the age of thirty.  I'm twenty-eight, and I'm nowhere near reaching that number, nor will I be able to in the foreseeable future.  As of now, I've been to a grand total of seven countries.  Yes, that's right: seven.  I definitely have some catching up to do!

My second reason for wanting to stay may not come as a surprise to many people.  I've met someone: a wonderful person by the name of Shelby Martin.  She has made my time here truly special, and I feel that I'm not ready to end that time soon.  I honestly don't know that I would have lasted this long without her here.  She has opened my eyes to new experiences, and seeing the world through her eyes has made me appreciate it all the more.

Even though I've decided to remain for another year, I realize that the time is still flying by.  Even with my decision to extend my contract another year, having completed eight months means that my time here is one third done.  I don't know about you, but that blows my mind!

I don't know when I'll be able to return home for a visit; like I said, I would like to use the time I have here to explore places I haven't been.  I miss all of my friends dearly, and I hope that we will all remain in close contact. I love you all, and I hope to see you all again soon!

All my best!

Homeward

As many of you already know, I'll be returning home to Alberta, Canada in a little over a week!  I really am enjoying my time in Korea.  The culture, the food, and the sights are all fascinating, and I truly am having the time of my life.  That said, there are a number of things that I miss.  First and foremost, obviously, are my friends and family.  I've been away from home before, but I've never gone longer than two months between visits.  By the time I arrive in Grande Prairie on January 21st, it will have been nearly five months since I've seen my parents, and I miss them terribly.  I also really miss all of my good friends, and I hope to see everyone at some point during my two-week visit.  To that end. I've decided to compile a list of the things I want to do while I'm there.  Some involve friends, and others involve random things that I really miss from home.

1. Game night/get together at Dan and Ronnie Hallock's place.  Some of my best memories from the past year have been getting together with friends there, watching 24, playing Worms or Settlers of Cataan, and generally just having an awesome time.
   
2. Enjoy a pizza from Ramona's.  Best pizza in town!
   
3. Go to wing night with the guys.  Even though a few of the guys have moved on, I really want to go to "wing night" with Steve, Corey, Dan, and Chris.  I miss you guys!
   
4. Have a Harvey Wallbanger at Original Joe's.
   
5.  Go to Wendy's or Arby's with Chris.  I miss those times!
   
6. Have "movie night" with Pam.  This is huge, I hope this can happen, I really miss movie night!
   
7. Visit my friends and former colleagues at St. Joe's.  I'm told that I'll be in town during exam week, so it should be easy to drop in and say hi to everyone!
   
8. Turkey dinner with my parents, to make up for missing it on Thanksgiving and Christmas.
   
9. Watch Deep Space Nine with Bobbi.  In person!
   
10. Get a haircut from Central Barber Shop.
    
11. Go to McDonald's with Michel.  Just like university!
    
12. Visit Edmonton for a guys' night with Patrick and Phil.
    
13. Watch The West Wing with Pat.
    
14. Have a huge get-together with all of my friends at The Golden Star.  Let's re-do the one we had at the end of July, minus the ridiculousness of my horrible bout with hay fever!

I really want to make all of these things happen!  I can't wait to see all of my friends, and making this list has gotten me more excited than ever!  Also, if you have any other ideas, please leave suggestions in the comments.  I can't wait to see you all!  I will be home from January 21st until February 5th, but I would like to spend a day or two in Edmonton as well.  See you all soon!

A Taste of Armageddon

ROK soldier takes part in a civil defense drill from six years ago

As I write this, there is a large booming voice coming over the loudspeaker in the school, yelling at the students to get down and find cover.  Emergency alarms and sirens are going off all over the city, and the booms of jet fighters flying overhead can be heard.

No, we're not under attack.

Today, at 2:00 pm local time, a civil emergency drill is being held, and tests of the civil response to an attack on Korea are being held across the country.  It is very fascinating to be living in an area where the possibility of an attack such as this actually exists.  It is a far cry from life in northern Alberta...

Here is a copy of the email I received from the Canadian Embassy this morning:


South Korea will hold a nationwide special civil emergency exercise today at 14:00 for 15 minutes. Sirens will sound, transport will be stopped and some people may be asked to take shelter in metro stations or basements. Aircraft may be heard overhead. There is no need to be alarmed. On 23 November, North Korea fired multiple rounds of artillery shells at the island of Yeonpyeong, killing 4 people and injuring several more. South Korea responded with its own artillery and has strengthened its military presence in the area. We advise against travel to Yeonpyong, or to the other North West Islands of Baengnyeong-do, Daecheong-do, Socheong-do and Woo-do. We assess that there is no substantially increased risk or danger to those living in or travelling to other areas of South Korea as a result of current tensions. Canadians should be vigilant, monitor ongoing developments, and follow the advice of local authorities.

Canadians are encouraged to maintain their level of readiness to cope with any emergency situation. It is recommended that:

you ensure that your travel documents, including your passport, are valid;
you have registered with the online Registry of Canadians Abroad (ROCA) and/or updated your registration with your latest information.



Those of you who have been following me on Facebook may know that on Thursday of last week, I lost my passport when I left my backpack on the subway.  Needless to say, the past few days have been very stressful and have involved filling out a police report, pleading my case with the Canadian Embassy, and beginning the lengthy process of acquiring a new passport.  One roadblock that I've encountered is the fact that I need my birth certificate in order to apply for a replacement passport, a document I neglected to bring with me to Korea.  As my parents are currently on vacation in South America until the end of December, I've been required to apply for a new birth certificate with the Government of Alberta.  They are currently processing my application, and will mail the certificate here when it is ready.

As I wrap this post up, the alarms continue to sound, and the voices over the intercom speak in clipped, panicked Korean.  I can definitely hear the jets flying overhead, and there is a palpable sense of excitement in the office.  Moreso now than at any other time in the last few days am I feeling apprehension at not having my passport with me.  I can only hope that I am able to acquire a new one before I'm scheduled to go home next month, or before the voices and sirens are no longer a drill.

Love you all, and with any luck, I'll see you next month back in Alberta!

Three Months In: A General Update

Today is November 26th, which means exactly three months ago I started working here in South Korea.  What do I think so far?

A Korean dish: Bibimbap

The Food: It took awhile, but I'm really enjoying Korean food.  In fact, the other day I came to the realization that I will miss many Korean foods when I return to Canada.  Korean barbecue is easy enough to find in Canada, but acquiring some things like dak galbi or songpyun may be a little more difficult.

The People: Korean people are an interesting group.  Koreans are fiercely loyal to their families, and intensely proud of Korean accomplishments; the Korean national identity is very strong.  Students in my class were dismayed when I told them that many people around the world don't realize how modern Korea is, but the class erupted in cheers when I told them that my best friend drives a Hyundai Tucson, and that my television back in Canada is a Samsung.

"Dynamic Seoul"

Seoul is an extremely active, busy place.  I'm amazed that, at three in the morning, there seems to be just as many vehicles driving on a main thoroughfare as most other times of the day.  Of course, at that time, well over 90% of them are taxis.  The city simply never stops.  I'm often both amazed and daunted by it.

I would be remiss if I didn't comment briefly on the events of this past Tuesday.  Supposedly in response to military exercises conducted by South Korean forces, North Korea launched a barrage of artillery shells against a South Korean island, Yeonpyeong.  The attack resulted in the deaths of two Korean marines and two civilian men and the destruction of a number of South Korean homes.  South Korea returned fire to the north with 88 artillery shells.  Damage and casualties in the north is unknown.  It is important to remember that incidents between the two Koreas happen on a regular basis.  This particular attack is a little different in that it is the first time civilian targets have been hit; however, it is by no means the most severe attack to happen.  Please know that we are completely safe and sound here in Seoul!

Defense Minister Kim Tae-Young
resigned after criticism

Yeonpyeong Island after NK shelling

Two marines and two civilians
were killed on the island

In the aftermath of this incident, the President of South Korea has declared that more troops will be stationed in the maritime border region and Washington has of course declared its solidarity with South Korea.  Also, the Korean defense minister has resigned due to public pressure with regards to how the attack was handled.  The President has stated that, in the future, Northern aggression that targets civilians will be met with harsher retaliation.  Finally, the United States has deployed a carrier group, led by the USS George Washington, to the Yellow Sea.  The only other worrying sign is that the US Navy and the ROK Navy are scheduled to participate in military exercises sometime next week, and the government in Pyongyang has stated that they will respond to this "provocation."  I had scheduled a visit to the Demilitarized Zone next week, but in light of this latest news, I've decided to hold off on that particular trip.  I do not believe that the situation will escalate significantly, but I also don't believe we have seen all of the fallout from this incident.  I do want everyone to know that I am keeping an ear to the ground, but that I am currently completely safe!  I've registered with the Canadian embassy, so if there is any reason to leave Korea quickly, I'll have support in place.


Tonight, however, will be cause for celebration.  I've signed up to a Thanksgiving dinner, put on by the meetup.com group "Seoulite."  Originally, a few friends were going to come with me, but they unfortunately had to back out.  I guess I can share the bottle of wine I got us with some new friends I meet there!  I think it will be a lot of fun, and I'm really looking forward to turkey, stuffing, potatoes, and pumpkin pie.  Can't wait!  Pictures to come!

빼빼로 Day!

Pepero promotional display in Lotte Mart in November

As I wrote about yesterday, November 11th is Remembrance Day in the Commonwealth countries.  Korea also observes a special day on November 11th: Pepero Day!

Pepero is a Korean confection, made of a cookie stick covered in chocolate.  There are a number of different flavours, but my favorite is definitely almond!  On Pepero Day, couples exchange boxes of pepero in order to show their affection.  Also, students will buy pepero for their teachers, and people often buy pepero for friends in their workplace.

Pepero is manufactured and sold by Lotte, a Korean company whose influence cannot be escaped in Seoul.  Everywhere you look, you will find items and services carrying the Lotte name.  Lotte Mart, Lotte Department Store, Lotte World (a huge indoor amusement park), apartment complexes known as Lotte Castle, hotels, insurance coverage, and even two baseball teams: the Chiba Lotte Marines in Japan, and the Lotte Giants in Busan.  According to Lotte, Pepero Day was not started by them.  Rather, they apparently noticed a spike in the sale of pepero on November 11th, after which they encouraged the holiday with special gift packaging and promotions of pepero during November.  November 11th is considered Pepero Day because, apparently, the date "11/11" resembles four sticks of pepero.

Original pepero

Regardless of the origin or "legitimacy" of Pepero Day as a holiday, Korean couples and children have a lot of fun exchanging pepero and surprising friends and family with the treat.  I, for one, enjoyed receiving pepero from many of my students, and I even bought a couple of boxes to bring to work and share with my co-workers.  I wonder if something similar could be introduced to Canada?  I personally think that pepero (and/or pocky) should have more of a presence in my home country.  Perhaps Lotte could expand their operations even further?

Lest We Forget

Today is November 11th, and in Canada, that means it's Remembrance Day.  Well, strictly speaking, it's not Remembrance Day yet, because it's only still the 10th in Canada as I write this.  You see, the time zone thing is very strange.  I'm currently living in November 11th here in Korea, which means... whoa, I'm in the future!  This is incredible!  Let me see if I can get today's lotto numbers for people back in North America... okay, something's wrong there, the Lotto 6/49 website hasn't updated to today yet.  Wait... if I'm in the future, what happens to past me?  Could I conceivably meet myself and somehow screw up time?  What if I do something to alter history so that I'm never born?!?  Wait, it's only a sixteen-hour difference... but I could change things... oh, this is far too much power for one person to have... I can't...

Okay, sorry about that, I've now upped my meds, and can continue on in a semi-rational manner.

The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in
Ottawa on Remembrance Day

Remembrance Day is observed on November 11th in order to mark the date of the Armistice following the First World War.  Historically, that war ended "at the 11th hour of the 11th day of the 11th month" of 1918 when Germany signed the Armistice.  Remembrance Day is observed by the countries of the Commonwealth.


Traditionally, one or two minutes of silence are observed at 11:00 a.m. in memory of the soldiers who fought and died since World War One.  In Canada, official Remembrance Day ceremonies are held at the National War Memorial in Ottawa, with the Governor General and other government representatives in attendance.  In Canadian schools, Remembrance Day assemblies are held, usually the day before Remembrance Day as the 11th itself is a national holiday.


A small red flower, called a "poppy," is worn on the left lapel during the two weeks before Remembrance Day, and on Remembrance Day itself.  In many of the battlefields of Europe, poppies grew, leading Canadian military physician John McCrae to author a poem entitled "In Flanders Fields."

In Flanders fields the poppies blow

      Between the crosses, row on row,
   That mark our place; and in the sky
   The larks, still bravely singing, fly
Scarce heard amid the guns below.

We are the Dead. Short days ago
We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,
   Loved and were loved, and now we lie,
         In Flanders fields.

Take up our quarrel with the foe:
To you from failing hands we throw
   The torch; be yours to hold it high.
   If ye break faith with us who die
We shall not sleep, though poppies grow
         In Flanders fields.

Since the 1920s, poppies have been a symbol of Remembrance Day throughout the Commonwealth.

I hope that this post has been at least a little educational to my non-Canadian (or Commonwealth country) friends.  Tomorrow, I'll write a post about a special day that is celebrated in Korea, which also falls on November 11th.

Confession time...

During my time here, there are many things I've had to keep quiet about.  You know what they say, "when in Rome..."  Maybe they are a little less liberal here, maybe some things just aren't spoken about...  Sometimes I can't help but think things like, "we don't do that in Canada... how strange."  But most of the time, you accept things because that's the way they are done here, and after all, I am a guest, and I want to learn how Korea does it.

However, I can't keep silent on this issue anymore.  It threatens to come bubbling to the surface, and I feel like I can't be myself.  So, revealed here for all the world to see is my shameful secret, something I've only told a few, very close friends:

I don't like kimchi.

Korean kimchi

I know, I know!  It's shocking!  I can hear Koreans and fellow ex-pats alike, crying "how could you!"  "I thought I knew you!" and even "That's unnatural!"  I know, and I'm so very sorry.  I tried.  Oh, how I tried to like it!  Every day at the school lunch, I would take three or four pieces, slowly eat them, and try my hardest to hide my grimace as they went down.  However, last week, the kimchi tasted... different.  Almost as though it had gone bad.  (Of course, this is a very relative term, as kimchi is made of fermented cabbage.  Can fermented cabbage "go bad"?)  Since that one experience, I haven't been able to eat kimchi.  I do my best to hide the fact that there is no kimchi on my tray during the lunch break, but it's only a matter of time before it's noticed and commented on...

Radish kimchi

There is another variety of kimchi made of radish that is occasionally on the menu.  It is still not one of my favorite foods, but I can eat it.

The Koreans in my reading audience will tell you that it's very healthy, and that eating kimchi actually burns fat.  I know that can't be true, however, it is high in fiber and low in calories.  It is, in many ways, a good food, just one that I find myself unable to stomach any longer.  Besides, one study links kimchi to higher risks of developing gastric cancer.  So, you know, there's that.

There are many aspects of Korean culture and food that I am wholeheartedly embracing.  It just so happens that one of the most visible parts of that culture turns my stomach... to my Korean friends, and other kimchi sympathizers, I'm so sorry.  However, it leaves more for the rest of you!

Officially swearing off kimchi for the time being,
Dan.

Remember, remember the fifth of November...

Portrait of Guy Fawkes

Many people in Canada know very little about Guy Fawkes Day, which is celebrated in the UK.  The day commemorates the uncovering of the "Gunpowder Treason," a supposed attempt by Sir Robert Catesby and a number of Catholic co-conspirators to blow up the British House of Lords and kill the Protestant King James I during the opening of Parliament on November 5th, 1605.  The attempt was thwarted when, after receiving an anonymous letter detailing the plot, British authorities discovered one of Catesby's co-conspirators, Guy Fawkes, guarding 36 barrels of gunpowder beneath the House of Lords.  Fawkes was arrested, and while most of his co-conspirators attempted to flee London, eight men, including Fawkes, were arrested, tried, convicted, and sentenced to be hanged, drawn and quartered.

A bonfire on Guy Fawkes Night

The outcome of the Gunpowder Treason is felt even today.  Traditionally, before the opening of Parliament, the cellar of the Palace of Westminster is inspected by the Yeomen of the Guard in order to ensure that no one has planted explosives in a modern-day attempted Gunpowder Treason.  Only once the cellar has been declared clear is the Queen permitted to enter.  In Great Britain, Guy Fawkes Day (November the fifth) is celebrated by lighting bonfires and setting off fireworks.  Small representations of Guy Fawkes are purchased and displayed, and these effigies are burned in the bonfires.  This practice has diminished over the years, slowly being replaced by American Halloween.  In Canada, Guy Fawkes Day is celebrated in a few areas, such as Nanaimo BC and Newfoundland.

British Yeomen of the Guard

In Korea, no one celebrates Guy Fawkes Day, and mention of it here draws only a blank stare, much as it does in most of Canada.  So, how will I be commemorating Guy Fawkes Day, you ask?  Well, I will be going to a friend's apartment tonight, where three of us will gather in front of my computer and watch V For Vendetta.  There is definitely something to be said for tradition.  I wonder where I can buy some popcorn?

Some thoughts...

Well, here it is, over two months into my Korean adventure.  I arrived in this country on the 25th of August, and it is now already the 4th of November.  The weeks are flying by at a rapid pace, and I scarcely have time to blink before the weekend ends and Monday arrives once again.  In the past two months, I have seen many things and experienced many aspects of Korean culture and sights in Seoul.  Still, it really feels as though I've barely scratched the surface of what I want to do here.

So far, I've been up the Namsan Tower, visited Insadong, toured the Namsan traditional village, been to Bukchon, visited Gyoungbok Palace, been solicited on the street in Itaewon, discovered the only place that sells pies in Korea, and even found time to clean my apartment somewhat.

I've eaten many types of Korean foods, including kimchi, galbi, gimbap, bibimbap, danmuji, quail eggs, and bulgogi.

I've picked up a few souvenirs already, too.  I already have my official keychain, and there is also a Korean flag adorning my apartment.  I've also picked up a few souvenirs for friends and family, and I want to send those soon...

Still, there are many more things that I would like to experience.  There are many items on my "to do" list, not the least of which are:

Visit the DMZ

Travel to Japan, China, and possibly the Philippines

Visit Jeju Island

Travel to Busan

What do you think?  What should I add to my list?  Please leave any suggestions for me in the comments, any and all ideas would be very much appreciated.

Random Subway Occurrence

So, I'm riding the subway on the way to Itaewon.  Beside me is a boy (about 12 years old) and his father.  The train stops at a station, and when the boy turns his head away from his father, the father very quietly and quickly gets up and slips out the open door.  A few seconds later, the boy turns back to see his father gone.  He looks around, confused, muttering something that probably translates as "Wha... I... wha?"  He then catches sight of his father looking at him from the platform laughing his head off!  Soon, a number of passengers (myself included) are grinning and smirking, doing all that we can to not burst out in peals of laughter.  As the train pulls out of the station, the father signals his son to catch the return train at the next station.  Needless to say, it was extremely hilarious.

I'm sure the child-abandonment issues and psychologist bills will be well worth the lols.